Tavarnelle, Chianti - The Good Life

Tavarnelle is a municipality in the Chianti region of Tuscany situated in the beautiful countryside between Florence and Siena. Think fields ribboned with grape vines, ruby red wines and medieval hilltop hamlets and borghi - so much to love! 

I recently spent a fabulous few days on a blog tour organised by the municipality of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, my first visit to Tuscany, to discover its food, wine, history and beautiful countryside.  Let me tell you about 'Chianti da Vivere' the good life'.

Tuscany more than lived up to expectations with wildly beautiful views of ancient hilltop villages surrounded by billowing fields of budding vines and olive groves.  Dramatic skies spiked by lofty Cypress trees, misty mornings and a feeling of freshness in the air gave us a taste of springtime in Tavarnelle.

Tuscan Vineyard
Tuscan Vineyard

Tuscan Food

We sampled delicious Italian food during a farmhouse cooking class with Wilma at Podere Torricella where we cooked up, dished up and polished off some mouth-watering rustic cuisine. Read more about food from the Tuscan table.

We dropped by Agriturismos; these old estates and farms produce olive oil, wine, honey and serve delicious, locally sourced or home-grown food.

Tuscan cheese, salami and olives
Tuscan cheese, salami and olive platter

Chianti Wines

You wouldn't visit the Chianti corner of Tuscany without dropping into a vineyard or two so we checked out a few - from the oldest of wine cellars to the newest, state of the art, winery at Cantina Antinori. A wine tasting tour in Chianti is a must-do activity.

Tavarnelle Art, History and Artisans

Something that surprised me about the Tavarnelle region was an abundance of artefacts, museums and ancient architecture; some of the buildings which date back as far as the 10th century housed some exquisite relics.

Artisans are still hard at work  in the Tavarnelle region and we saw two craftsmen, one over 80 years old, at work in Argento Firenze, Sambuca, creating beautiful hand-made silver and enamel pieces. Read more in my article The Hidden Treasures of Tuscany.

San Donato

Let me introduce you to the medieval town where I stayed for two nights during my trip. San Donato in Poggio (Poggio means on a hill) is a gorgeous walled borgo on the old Roman road from Florence to Siena (about half an hour's drive from Florence).

San Donato in Poggio
San Donato in Poggio

Records date the castle back to 989 and to this day part of the fortress wall remains, two entrance gates; Porta Florentine and Porta Sienese together with a lookout tower, the Torrino and a bell tower, the Campanone.  Narrow, cobbled alleyways lined with quaint houses and arches dripping with Wisteria lead to the main Piazza Malaspina. 

The octagonal well in the main square is overlooked by Palazzo Malaspina which houses the tourist office, exhibitions and art collections, the church of Santa Maria della Neve and the Palazzo Pretorio - all medieval structures and one housing the Museo Emilio Ferraria; a small farming museum.

Octagonal Well in San Donato in Poggio, Tavarnelle, Tuscany
Octagonal Well in the main Piazza

Just outside the walls of the hamlet stands a Romanesque parish church dating back to 989, which houses a glazed terracotta baptismal font, attributed to Giovanni della Robbia (1513) and a painted crucifix attributed to Taddeo Gaddi, an apprentice of Giotto. Other works are now preserved in the Museum of Church San Stefano on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence.

Pieve di San Donato
Pieve di San Donato

I stayed two nights at a wonderfully quirky B&B, a medieval building located right on the Piazza and run by the charming Valeria. The Terrazze del Chianti, named so for good reason, as it has stunning views from the terrace across the beautiful Tuscan countryside. Country-style furniture and a wood-burning stove in my room made it really cosy and a huge collection of retro toys and memorabilia was fascinating. 

I loved the kitsch collection of cooking implements in the dining room which reminded me of times spent in my grandmother's kitchen as a child.

Le Terrazze del Chianti B&B, San Donato, Tuscany

Breakfast was excellent and whatever your taste in coffee was freshly made to order. Fresh fruit and juice, cereals, yoghurt, eggs, local cheese and salamis and home-baked bread and pastries were all delicious and a great start to a busy day exploring Tavarnelle.

Le Terrazze del Chianti B&B, San Donato, Tuscany

Disclosure:  Accommodation and meals were sponsored by the Municipality of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa but all thoughts, opinions, and enthusiasm for Tuscany are my own.  My thanks to all the people of Tavarnelle who helped make the trip so enjoyable.  

35 Comments

  1. Pingback: Food from the Tuscan Table | MumRx
  2. Katie Featherstone says:

    Delicious food you've described here. Your photos and explanations have reminded me why I need to return to this part of the world, so thankyou!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Tuscany is never a bad idea! Thank you for dropping by :0

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  4. This place looks like a fairy tale land 🙂 The beauty of the place was captured excellently in your photographs & article, thank u.

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      I need to go back JP - thank you for dropping by 🙂

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  6. Meg Travels says:

    This looks like a marvelous place to visit and the food looks wonderful too - I'm looking forward to learning more about it!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Lot to come Meg - thanks for dropping by 🙂

  7. Suzanne, what a fantastic journey you're on ... so, so envy - and this little village San Donato, just as I imaging a Tuscany village to be - never been to Tuscany, seen very little of Italy - which I regret. Rome and I was okay with each other, but it didn't blow my socks off. The gallery from the village so stunningly beautiful and that little B&B, just what I had chosen too.
    I so enjoy your journeys ... and it's a pleasure to be able to share them with you.
    You're so outstandingly good .. on this, travel dairy.

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Ahh Viveka - that's so kind of you, thank you! San Donato and the whole Tavarnelle area in Tuscany was fabulous - wonderful food and wine and stunning scenery - what more could you ask for...!

  8. Pingback: Wine Tasting in Tuscany's Chianti Country » The Travelbunny
  9. Elena Farinelli (@nelli) says:

    Thank you Suzanne: your pics and words are perfect to describe our Region ... thanks for coming!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Thank you so much for the invitation, I loved visited your region 🙂 New post on the area's wine just up on the blog today...

  10. This looks heavenly! I'm thinking of going back to Italy next year - and Tuscany is definitely on the destination list! I might have to pick your brain for some good contacts! Beautiful photos!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Three days was nowhere near long enough. I'll definitely be going back some time soon. Pick away Deirdre - happy to help if I can.

  11. Neva @ Retire for the Fun of it says:

    I love the Tuscany region for the quiet and simple life it lends. I've always wondered how such ancient buildings can stay looking so clean.

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      This was my first visit and I shall definitely be returning - such a wonderful area of Italy.

  12. Oh dear! I just returned from Florence two days ago and I missed my day tour of Tuscany. I really missed out. Hopefully I will get there one day after seeing your photos it's near the top of my bucket list 🙂

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Missing your tour of Tuscany gives you the perfect excuse to go back! Florence is a wonderful city too - I really enjoyed it 🙂

  13. Charlotte says:

    So gorgeous! Looks like the set for a movie!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Thanks Charlotte - at every turn there's more gorgeousness and wonderful food and fabulous wine! Loved Tuscany 🙂

  14. Lois Alter Mark says:

    Oh, these photos make me want to get on a plane right now! Is there any place better to just eat and enjoy the scenery than Tuscany?!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      I'm not sure there is! 🙂

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  16. What a beautiful part of the world. I love these old historic towns. It's always amazing some of the historical artwork and artifacts that find their homes in these little hamlets. I want that platter of food, NOW! 🙂

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Nancie, The food was fabulous and you're so right it is a very enchanting part of the world - somewhere I could never spend too much time 🙂

  17. Johanna Bradley says:

    Your photos capture it beautifully, Suze. A small red for me, please 🙂

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Thanks Jo - lots more to come on all the wonderful things this area has to offer. Cheers 🙂

  18. santafetraveler says:

    One of the top things on our bucket list is to eat our way through Tuscany while visiting old buildings and walking down charming streets. We will follow in your footsteps!

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Eating your way through Tuscany sounds like a fantastic plan - I hope to inspire you!

  19. One of these days... my hope is to travel to Italy for a minimum of 3 months to explore and move among the locals, and to take cooking classes where I can learn to make authentic Italian cuisine. Your photos are terrific and make me yearn for the Italian countryside.

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      Thank you Patti - 3 months exploring Italy as you hope sounds like a wonderful trip. I'd love to do that too 🙂

  20. Kathryn Burrington says:

    What a fabulous experience! I have visited Tuscany a couple of times, including a long weekend just recently, but I have never been to Tavarnelle Val di Pesa - something I now aim to put right! It looks lovely. Thanks for the insight.

    1. Suzanne Lea Jones says:

      It was a wonderful trip Kathryn. I shall definitely be returning to Tuscany to learn more about the people, food, history and beautiful countryside. I'm really enjoying your posts about your recent trip.

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