St Ives is a captivating Cornish town built around a small crescent in the south west of England. Colourful fishing boats bob in the bay and fishermen unload their catches onto the quay.
The Tate St Ives overlooks Porthmeor Beach and a multitude of galleries display art and artisan crafts. Quaint fishermen’s cottages, pubs and restaurants are just a cobbled saunter from the granite quayside. St Ives is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Cornwall.
St Ives was a total contrast from the rugged Cornish coastline we’d worked our way around the previous day. Not just in terms of scenery. The weather had changed completely and we awoke to a glorious October day – perfect for exploring.
Soft golden sands replaced brooding, craggy rocks and translucent waters took the place of steel-grey, seas.
What to see in St Ives
Tregenna Castle Hotel, with stunning views from its perch on the hill overlooking the town, was our base for two nights. A short walk through the pretty landscaped grounds takes you down to the Blue Flagged ‘Porthminster Beach’.
A wide arc of pale sand stretches into views of Godrevy Lighthouse – Virginia Woolf’s favourite. The beacon played the lead role in her novel ‘To the Lighthouse’. But we were heading in the opposite direction towards St Ives and its cheerful little harbour.
St Ives Harbour
It’s low tide and a crescent of fishermen’s cottages and small dwellings cradle the sandy harbour. Small boats sit stranded on silken sands and a rusting, cast-iron lighthouse on Smeaton’s Pier punctuates the blue sky.
St Ives was originally a pilchard fishing port and a smaller fishing industry still exists today and you’ll see fishermen landing their catches on the town’s quayside.
The Sloop Inn, which opened in 1312. is located on the wharf and is one of the best known and oldest inns in Cornwall.
MORE UK WEEKEND BREAK INSPIRATION…
A Weekend Break in Suffolk • An Isle of Man Weekend Getaway • A Weekend Break in Rye, East Sussex • A Seaside Break in Sunny Eastbourne
The tangle of narrow cobbled streets leading from the port is known as The Downalong. Happy to oblige, we walked down and along noting some of the peculiar street names; Teetotal Street, Fish Street and Virgin Street.
St Ives’ Old Green Door
We stopped by the 200-year-old door at the back of The Bakers at 1 Virgin Street. The door’s owners were once made an offer to put it in The Tate Gallery. They politely declined asking ‘where would we get another 200-year-old door’! The door even has a Flickr group dedicated to it.
Art in St Ives
They say the light in St Ives has a particular clarity and I’d agree. There’s an aura in the air and luminosity in the light.
Many artists have pitched their palettes in the town and as we meandered the maze of cobbled lanes we were drawn into tiny galleries, studios and workshops which number as many, if not more, than the cafes, pubs and restaurants.
I don’t often buy souvenirs but a piece of Jo Downs’ glass was an exception.
Beaches in St Ives
St Ives is beach heaven with three main beaches, the harbour, and then more beaches further afield. After rounding the harbour we head to the end of Smeaton’s Pier for a look at the lighthouse and come back via Porthgwidden Beach with its row of brightly coloured beach huts.
It’s in a small cove which shelves gently and is family friendly due to its size and sheltered position.
The ‘The Island’ is our next stop. It isn’t really an island but a small headland jutting out into the ocean. The coastal views are spectacular and it’s a stopping point for migratory birds.
Seals, dolphins and porpoises can sometimes be seen basking here although we didn’t spot any. There’s an old coastguard station and church up on the hill where there are spectacular views across Porthmeor Beach and out to sea.
Porthmeor Beach is great for surfers and we watched awhile as a lone surfer attempted to ride the waves – with some success.
By now we needed a coffee so we made our way round to the beach where we stopped at Porthmeor Café Bar. The café’s raised up so we sat in the sunshine taking in the wonderful sea views.
Right next to the café is The Tate St Ives. Situated on the site of a former gas-works the imposing building opened in 1993 and is testament to the importance of art in the town.
The gallery features exhibitions representing the modern St Ives painters such as Peter Lanyon and Patrick Heron and an ongoing programme of other contemporary works. There’s a rooftop café with panoramic views across the bay.
Eat a Cornish Pasty
Time was getting on and we were getting hungry so we made our way back down to the harbour for a quick bite. It had to be a Cornish Pasty. The pasty is said to have evolved for Cornish tin miners. A complete, hand-held hot meal. The pastry casing is filled with meat, potato, onion and swede.
The thick crimped edges were designed so that the miners could hold the edge without getting poisoned by the arsenic on their fingers. The crimped part is then discarded.
I went for a medium-sized traditional steak pasty and we ate it on a bench by the harbour watching the ever-rising tide. Meanwhile a beady-eyed seagull intently watched our pasties.
We were lucky to have gorgeous autumn weather in St Ives but the town sits on the Gulf Stream which ensures that it has more than it’s fair share of sunshine and mild climes. Good reason to visit any time of year and we’ll definitely be heading back to Cornwall at the first opportunity.
Wednesday 7th of September 2016
Excellent article, there is plenty of things to do in St. Ives. I have recently returned from a trip there and the number of beaches (4 or 5 I think) all within a few minutes from the town centre is amazing.
Wednesday 7th of September 2016
Yup, the beaches there are pretty amazing :)
Travelbunny Highlights 2014 | The Travelbunny
Sunday 23rd of August 2015
[…] saw my first visit to Cornwall for a wedding and time for exploring its wild and rugged coastline. We stayed in St Ives which is […]
Jo’s Monday walk : São Brás circular | restlessjo
Monday 17th of November 2014
[…] St. Ives, Cornwall- beaches, boats and the Old Green Door […]
Monday 10th of November 2014
I feel a bit like I'm running a contest for the world's best beach on the Monday walks, Suze. :) These are definitely in with a shout. It's so long since I was there that I remember very little of the place and I'm sure it's moved on a lot since I was in my teens! D'you know, I'm sure they have that green door in Tavira? Or maybe it's a blue one :) :) Loved your guide, Suze, and definitely coveting the glassware. Many thanks!
Monday 10th of November 2014
Portugal and Northumberland seem to have some fabulous beaches Jo. Maybe we should start up a door theme like your Lingering Look at Windows - I'm always taking pics of doors - the older and more aged the better!
Saturday 8th of November 2014
I'm still yet to make it to Cornwall. Shameful I know. St Ives, especially The Sloop Inn, sounds wonderful and your story about the old, green door did make me chuckle.
Sunday 9th of November 2014
I was the same - how I got to my age without visiting before I'll never know! That green door had loads of character and the Sloop Inn was overflowing with characters....!