Discovering the Dordogne, France with Great Rail Journeys
Medieval streets, market stalls piled with local produce, prehistoric art and a vintage train winding through stunning countryside was just the beginning. Our week in the Dordogne gave us plenty to savour, and that was before we’d even sat down to dinner.
My husband and I joined Great Rail Journeys’ ‘Flavours of the Dordogne’ escorted group tour in September, travelling from London by rail. We spent six nights in Les Eyzies with our excellent Tour Manager, Della, taking care of all our arrangements and day-to-day running of the tour.
Having spent years organising other people’s travels, I really enjoyed having a tour manager take care of the logistics and behind-the-scenes organisation. But how did the holiday work in practice? Was there time to explore independently? How much travelling was involved? And did the food live up to the tour’s name?
Disclosure: I was a guest of Great Rail Journeys on this trip in September 2026. All views, opinions and love of a train journey are entirely my own and this review reflects my personal experience.
Flavours of the Dordogne: the tour at a glance
- Our group: 24 travellers on our departure accompanied by our Tour Manager, Della.
- Getting there: Eurostar from London to Paris, followed by a first-class TGV journey to Angoulême and coach transfer to Les Eyzies.
- Our base: Six nights at Hôtel du Centenaire in Les Eyzies.
- Included meals: Daily breakfast, three evening meals and one restaurant lunch.
- Independent dining: Three evening meals and five lunches at our own expense.
- Excursions: Coach trips most days from the hotel with our local driver, Robert.
- Highlights: La Roque-Gageac, Sarlat market, the Truffadou steam train, Lascaux IV and Rocamadour.
- Time to ourselves: Opportunities to explore independently, including free time in Les Eyzies.
My overall impressions
The variety was a real draw to this holiday. We could be browsing a market one day, admiring prehistoric cave paintings another, then watching the countryside unfold from a vintage railway carriage the next.
The programme felt relaxed and well balanced, with organised visits alongside opportunities to explore independently as a couple. Returning to the same hotel each evening also gave us a relaxed base for the week without moving from hotel to hotel, packing and unpacking, which I enjoyed. Some might prefer a more train-based trip travelling from city to city by rail.
The places visited, quality of the food and Della's efficiency were particular highlights.
Excursions within the region were by coach, too with transfer timings from 35 to 90 minutes with plenty of time to explore without feeling rushed.
Our hotel: Hôtel du Centenaire in Les Eyzies
Les Eyzies made a pretty and practical base, with shops, restaurants and bars all within easy walking distance of the hotel. The town is closely associated with the Dordogne’s prehistoric heritage, with caves and archaeological sites to visit a short walk away.
We spent six nights at Hôtel du Centenaire, a chef-owned hotel where food is a central part of the experience. Chef Mathieu Métifet runs the hotel with his partner, Chloé Doki-Thonon, and its restaurant, La Table du Centenaire, is recommended in the Michelin Guide.
Our Room in the Hotel
Our room was spacious and comfortably furnished, with a bathroom that had both a bathtub and two hand basins plus a separate roomy walk-in shower and separate toilet. Handmade soaps are a thoughtful finishing touch.
Outside, the heated pool is surrounded by sun loungers and parasols, while the lounge and bar offers pleasant spaces to relax indoors.
We were very comfortable here, but the food deserves a special mention. On a holiday called ‘Flavours of the Dordogne’ returning to the hotel at the end of the day was something to look forward to. The food was exceptional.
Food and Drink at the hotel
There are two restaurants, Le Bistro du Centenaire and Le Table du Centenaire.
A buffet breakfast served in the Bistro was included each day with tea, coffee and juices, A continental breakfast of fresh fruit, yoghurt, nuts, a selection of cheeses and cold meats with fresh bread, jam and cooked items including scrambled egg, bacon and baked beans.
Our Tour Manager and Driver
Great Rail Journeys provided all the information we needed in advance including a welcome pack and detailed itinerary. They kept us informed of all aspects of the trip including any small changes. We even had instructions and map on where to find their office in St Pancras.
Our tour manager, Della, was absolutely brilliant. She’d done her research and knew exactly where we needed to be and how to get there. She had town maps ready to hand out and any information and tips we might need. She also spoke French which was useful and was friendly and approachable.
Della updated the WhatsApp chat regularly with details of the next day, menus and timings so we knew exactly what was going on at each stage of the trip.
A phone call from Della before travelling was a nice personal touch and gave us the chance to ask any last-minute questions.
Our local driver Robert was excellent too. He knew the roads very well and was always ready, right on time. We didn’t ever have to hang around waiting for the coach to arrive.
Great Rail Journeys 'Flavours of the Dordogne' Itinerary
Day 1 - Travel from London to Les Eyzies
Travelling to the Dordogne by rail
Our trip began early at London St Pancras, where we met Della and our fellow travellers at the Great Rail Journeys office before boarding Eurostar for Paris. Travelling in Eurostar Plus, we were served a continental breakfast as we headed towards the Channel Tunnel.
In Paris, a coach took us from Gare du Nord to Gare Montparnasse for our onward journey. We then settled into first class on the high-speed TGV to Angoulême.
This was where having a Tour Manager was reassuring. Della explained each stage and guided us through the stations, so we could follow her lead rather than work out the connections ourselves. Montparnasse wasn’t the easiest station to navigate.
Robert, our driver for the week, met us at Angoulême for the final leg to Les Eyzies. Our modern coach had plenty of room and very welcome air conditioning.
The transfer to Les Eyzies took around two and a half hours. Although it made for a long travel day, taking the train closer to our destination would have meant a longer wait between connections and a later arrival. Travelling via Angoulême got us to the hotel sooner.
Welcome Dinner at the Hotel
After being shown to our rooms the group met for a welcome drink. As it was a beautifully warm evening we ate dinner outside.
At group dinners we sat together on tables of 6-8 which meant everybody could get to know each other.
The group consisted of a mix of couples, friends and solo travellers. Everyone was very friendly with some very interesting stories to tell.
After nibbles of melon, charcuterie and olives we started with a delicious gazpacho. Our main course was a regional dish of duck confit with puree and vegetables. Dessert was one of my all-time favourites, creme brulee.
The food was all excellent, beautifully presented and were good sized portions. Two glasses of wine were served with dinner.
Menus were advised in advance and any dietary requirements taken care of by Della beforehand.
Day 2 - La Roque-Gageac and Marqueyssac Gardens
La Roque-Gageac
After breakfast we set off on our first Dordogne excursion to La Roque-Gageac, located in the Périgord noir in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine area of the Dordogne.
It’s a stunningly beautiful village overlooking the Dordogne river with a backdrop of towering limestone rock. Worthy of its official status as one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France.
We climbed aboard a traditional flat-bottomed boat called a ‘gabare’ and went for a relaxing cruise along the river. We sailed past countryside and forests with trees growing at right angles from the top of the cliffs, past the village and château before mooring up.
Our group lunch was at restaurant Les Courtines on the terrace under the shade of a leafy grapevine. Della sent out menu choices the day before and I chose a delicious Salade Rocamadour with local cheese followed by walnut cake with ice cream.
Afterwards there was free time to explore the narrow stone streets, fort and exotic gardens of La Roque-Gageac or just to stroll along the riverside.
Marqueyssac Gardens
Our next stop, Marqueyssac Gardens, is just a 15-minute drive from the village and is a lovely place to lose a few hours wandering above the Dordogne Valley.
More than six kilometres of paths wind through the gardens and woodland, leading to the Belvedere, perched 130 metres above the river. From here we could see the village of La Roque-Gageac, the river and castle towns across the valley.
Next to the chateau a topiary garden stopped us in our tracks. All 150,000 box shrubs are carefully trimmed by hand, there are peacocks in the grounds and a tea room overlooking the valley. It’s all very beautiful.
After our full day out we were transported back to the hotel by Robert. Dinner was at leisure and we spent time exploring Les Eyzies at sunset before finding ourselves a table at La Maison restaurant.
We were still quite full from lunch so just ordered a main course each. I had trout tartare and my husband ordered beef fillet. The food was only okay but the ambiance was pleasant in a shabby chic kind of way.
Day 3 - Market Day in Sarlat-la-Canéda
Saturday was originally a free day in the itinerary but it was market day in the medieval town of Sarlat so Great Rail Journeys organised a coach transfer there and back for us.
Della handed out maps of the town and we spent the day exploring independently before heading back to the hotel at 3pm.
Sarlat is the capital of the Périgord Noir region in the Dordogne. With winding medieval lanes, honey-coloured stone buildings and grand townhouses dating from the 15th and 16th centuries it’s one of the best preserved medieval towns in France.
On market days, stalls fill the whole town, continuing a trading tradition that stretches back centuries. Look out for regional specialities including walnuts, duck pâté, cheeses, honey and seasonal produce. There are other goods for sale like woven baskets, clothing and household goods.
Leave time to explore beyond the stalls, too: Place de la Liberté, Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral and the little passageways of the old town are all worth a wander. We found some very pretty quiet spots in the side streets.
Arrive early if you can for a leisurely browse before the streets get busy. We found it really difficult to find somewhere to have just a drink between around 11am - 2pm, tables are all reserved for dining so if you plan on eating you might want to book.
Wednesday: food market, 8am–1pm.
Saturday: food market, 8am–1pm, with non-food stalls continuing until 6pm.
We left Sarlat around 3pm and were back to the hotel before 4pm, with time to relax before dinner.
Dinner at Le Bistro du Centenaire
Dinner was outdoors again in the hotel garden this evening with another fabulous menu of locally sourced ingredients.
I adored the starter of creamy mushroom soup with egg and the main of flambéed prawns, rice and vegetables was excellent. These two courses were topped off with a delectable chocolate dessert. Two glasses of wine were served with dinner.
Day 4 - Domme and the Truffadou steam train
Medieval Town of Domme
Sunday dawned another bright sunny day. Perfect weather for our visit to the medieval bastide of Domme, another village with the official status of ‘most beautiful villages in France’.
The drive was around 40-minutes and once there we had free time to explore. Domme is a treasure of a walled, fortified town sitting atop a 150-metre high hilltop overlooking miles of stunning countryside. The Dordogne river wends its way through the vista into the distance.
As well as its 14th-century fortifications, such as the Porte des Tours, or the Maison du Gouverneur, Domme has an extraordinary underground feature. Sitting right beneath the town square is Grotte de Domme, a 450-metre long cave packed with stalactites and stalagmites.
There are plenty of artisanal shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. I had a wonderful little tarte aux pommes with a glass of panaché in one of them.
Truffadou Steam Train, Martel
No great rail journey would be complete without a vintage steam train ride. In the afternoon we travelled from Domme to Martel where we boarded the Truffadou steam train. The train was historically used to transport truffles and travels along a charming eight-mile route through beautiful countryside.
The route, with five tunnels, is carved into the cliffs overlooking the valley. Sitting in open carriages we trundled through the countryside, billowing steam, whistle blowing and soaking up views of the beautiful valley below.
Afterwards, we returned to our hotel in Les Eyzies where we dined independently in town.
We found a small hotel restaurant by the river called Hostellerie du Passeur. After olives and small savoury pastries we both ordered the filet de boeuf which was beautifully cooked and came with peridgourdine sauce, vegetables and sarlatdaise potatoes.
Day 5 - Free time to explore Les Eyzies and afternoon wine tasting
Les Eyzies
In the morning we had a lazy breakfast before exploring our base, the little town of Les Eyzies and its history. The town is known as the ‘World capital of pre-history’ with a number of attractions in Les Eyzies reflecting its title.
The National Museum of Prehistory brings to life nearly 400,000 years of humanity. As well as being absolutely fascinating it’s just a five-minute walk from the hotel. In fact we could see the Cro-Magnon statue from our bedroom window.
There’s also a Prehistory Interpretation Centre nearby and a number of caves including the Font-de-Gaume, one of the most beautifully decorated Paleolithic sanctuaries in the world.
Advance booking is required for guided visits to the prehistoric sites managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux.
The town of Les Eyzies is worth exploring itself with shops selling a range of local produce, cafes, bars and restaurants. There’s a river walk, Monday market and stream with an old working water mill.
Wine Tasting at Domaine Chante l'Oiseau estate
In the afternoon we head into the Dordogne wine region by coach to a small wine estate to sample some local wines. We begin our visit to Domaine Chante l'Oiseau estate with a tour of the vineyard before enjoying a wine-tasting with some French charcuterie.
It’s a tiny family-run business who have just one small plot, grow one grape variety, which means there’s no blending, and they produce excellent wines. And at €11-18 I may have brought a bottle or two home with me - that’s another great thing about train travel!
That evening we ate independently back in Les Eyzies. We found a small taverna near the hotel where we had a relaxed meal of the tradition local dish of cassoulet.
Day 6 - Lascaux Caves and Rocamadour
Pre-historic art at Lascaux IV
Four teenagers stumbled across the Lascaux cave in 1940 and, by chance, made one of the most important archaeological discoveries of the 20th century.
The original cave closed to visitors back in 1963 to protect the paintings, so we spent the morning at Lascaux IV, where you can see an incredibly detailed recreation of the cave and its prehistoric art.
Horses, deer and wild cattle sweep across the rockface in shades of ochre, red and black with a mysterious two-horned creature among them. It’s said to be the Lascaux Unicorn. Amongst the many animals there’s just one small simply-drawn human figure with the head of a bird. I’m sure these artists of the past would find today’s selfie culture incredibly odd.
The animals have a real sense of movement and it was easy to forget you’re looking at a replica. I came away marvelling at how much life the artists had captured in just a few strokes.
The building itself is architecturally interesting and very modern. A total contrast to the caves within.
Rocamadour
Rocamadour is the sort of place that makes you wonder how on earth they built it. Medieval stone houses line the narrow street below, chapels cling to the cliff halfway up and a château crowns the whole lot.
Della led us down to the village at the bottom and we had plenty of free time to explore. It’s a place that rewards a wander; always another archway to peer through or another reason to stop and look up.
The sanctuary has attracted pilgrims for centuries. Its Notre-Dame Chapel is home to the Black Madonna, a small medieval wooden statue, while the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur and the Crypt of Saint-Amadour form part of the UNESCO-listed Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
The Grand Staircase has 216 steps, which some pilgrims climb on their knees. If that sounds too much, there’s a lift which we took to go back to the top after our visit.
Dinner at La Table du Centenaire
Our final dinner was served in the hotel in the gastronomic restaurant.
We started with an amuse bouche of beetroot followed by a starter of morel mushroom stuffed with vegetables which was full of flavour but delicate at the same time.
Our main course of Magret of duck with carrot medley was the standout dish and the peach, melon and tonka bean dessert finished our meal beautifully. 2-3 glasses of wine were served and we ended with tea or coffee.
It was the perfect ending to our visit to the Dordogne and our time at Hôtel du Centenaire.
Day 7 - Travel from Les Eyzies to London
Our return journey to London was the same as our outbound only in reverse and all went smoothly. We said goodbye to Robert at Angoulême and made our way to Paris on the TGV.
Tip: Don’t bring a big suitcase unless you like hauling them around train stations, up and down stairs and on and off trains.
On the Eurostar we were served a pasta meal with a roll and butter, wine and coffee.
After saying our goodbyes to Della and the group we took our third rail journey of the day and headed home to the Sussex coast.
Who would enjoy Flavours of the Dordogne?
If your idea of a good holiday involves a morning browsing a French market, an afternoon exploring a village built into a cliff, a boat ride and an excellent dinner at the end of it all, I think this trip would suit you.
It worked well for us as a couple. We enjoyed swapping stories with our fellow travellers over dinner, but still had time to wander on our own and choose somewhere to eat.
I’d recommend ‘Flavours of the Dordogne’ to anyone who likes the idea of travelling to France by rail, good food and exploring the region’s attractions from one comfortable base with all the arrangements made for you. Our taste of the Dordogne with Great Rail Journeys left us wanting to discover more of this delightful area of France.
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