Bologna and a Penchant for Porticoes
I knew which of Bologna’s top sights I wanted to see during my two-day break en-route to Rimini.
Piazza Maggiore was high on the list as were the medieval twin towers and the charming hidden canals of the city. Food, of course, was a huge draw and I was keen to indulge in some serious gelato tastings.
But the sight that captivated me most was the city’s intricately decorated porticoes. I was constantly drawn back to the colonnades and pillars which filtered the sunlight and drew shifting shadows across the marble walkways creating an ever-changing perspective as the sun crept across the city.
Bologna is scorching hot in July and the russet, terracotta and ochre colours of the city exaggerated the feeling of heat. I welcomed the shady arcades lining the piazzas and vias that allowed me to explore away from the sun’s glare.
The 53 kilometres of porticoes have protected the Bolognesi from the elements for over 1000 years. Sometimes known as the city’s umbrellas, locals are happy to walk out in the rain sure in the knowledge that they can arrive at their destination without getting wet.
The porticoes came about as a result of homes being extended out over the pavements supported by wooden beams resting on large blocks of stone. Some of the original wooden structures can still be seen.
Initially the structures were viewed as obstructions but after realising the practical advantages they were sanctioned by the city. It was decreed that the portico beneath the extension be relegated to public use, even those that had been built by property owners on their own private land.
In 1288 Bologna, unlike other medieval cities, made porticoes mandatory for all streets useful to the public and from then they became an integral part of the city’s planning and a distinctive architectural feature.
Sculptures and carvings decorate arches and huge wooden doors with gleaming brass knockers lead from the porticoes into elegant hallways and cool courtyards. Nowadays the porticoes are display areas for small shops and boutiques. Bars and cafes are plentiful and are the perfect spot for a cool drink whilst resting weary feet and deciding which of Bologna’s treasures to visit next.
Ciao Suzanne,
I spent two weeks in Bologna this spring and can't wait to go back. I am looking for an apartment or hotel and I recall you had a few recommendations for some boutique hotels and rental accommodations. Can you please let me know which ones they are?
Grazie!
Missie
I love Bologna and would love to go back too. It's a while since I was there but I used the Mercure next to the station the first time and then an apartment the next time but can't remember where. I use Booking.com for accommodation. You can often cancel without penalty up to 24 hours before which is handy and prices are often the same as booking directly with the hotel. Enjoy your trip!
I love Bologna! It is one of the most underrated cities in Italy. I always stay at the Hotel Drapperie, right in the market street of the same name. I think these are the best markets in Italy. My first Freshly Pressed was for a post I did about the climb to the top of the tower.
It is a wonderful city and I'd love to return. The tower was closed for renovation when we visited and I was disappointed not to have been able to climb it - I've had a looked at your post though and the views from the top are amazing!
How wonderful and practical! Gorgeous photos Suzanne!
Thank you Madhu - I love all those lines!
Hi Suzanne, Bologna is one Italian cities I haven't been. It just have too many great cities to see. Your post and photos of Bologna are just beautiful; they make me want to travel there soon
Thank you 🙂 I'd love to go back soon....
some amazing photos there!
Thank you 🙂
Oh Suze, I think I've died and gone to heaven. What a fabulous post, and what a place to play "Singing in the rain"! I have my umbrella ready.
Oh thank you Jo - I was quite mesmerised by the porticoes and in fact the city as a whole. It's beautiful and a little off the tourist trail - I think I've fallen a little bit in love with Italy 🙂
Beautiful photos! 🙂
Thanks Kathryn x
Beautiful photos. Thanks for posting, I really enjoyed it
Thank you so much and thank you for stopping by 🙂
Beautiful architectural photography!!! Cheers Nonoy Manga
Thanks you and thanks for checking out my blog ;0