Narrow Boat Holidays: a weekend on the waterways 

This summer we swapped planes and trains for a narrow boat and took to the canals for a narrowboat holiday exploring England’s waterways. We cruised the canals with Drifters Waterway Holidays exploring stretches of both the Grand Union and Oxford canals.

England’s canals have been carrying both people and cargo for centuries. Nowadays they offer the ultimate slow travel experience and the chance to explore the countryside at a gentle pace along England’s historic canal network.

We spent a few days learning the ropes (literally), navigating locks, tunnels and discovering life in the slow lane. With sunshine, swans and some gorgeous villages, we drifted along to the slow rhythm of the waterways and quietly unwound on our boating holiday.

Meeting Madeleine

On a sunny Friday morning in July we packed up the car and set off for Kate Boats at Stockton Top Marina near Leamington Spa. 

Kate Boats are part of Drifters Waterway Holidays who offer a huge range of boat trips and canal boat hire across England, Wales and Scotland which makes it very easy to find a rental boat fairly close to home.

We parked up and were introduced to Madeleine, our narrow boat home for the weekend. With minimal boating skills and bucket loads of enthusiasm we stepped aboard. 

Before we set sail the guys at Kate Boats gave us a rundown of how everything works onboard and, importantly, tuition on how to steer, navigate the locks and turn the boat. There was also a video we watched beforehand.

With another family who’d just arrived, and their dog, we piled onto their boat and cruised down to some locks where we all practised opening and closing them. It’s easier than you might think. 

Once we’d had a go at turning and steering the boat we headed back to the marina ready to cast off into the Grand Union Canal – this time on our own. What could possibly go wrong. 

Life on board a narrow boat

As we stepped aboard we could see that we’d be very comfortable on Madeleine. She was equipped for us to be self-sufficient although we fully intended to moor up for some pub food during our trip. 

At the front of the boat (bow) is a small outdoor seating area which leads into the lounge area. Two cushioned benches (which can convert into a double bed if required) line the walls with a removable dining table. TV, DVD player and radio are supplied.

Moving into the galley there’s a full-sized cooker and hob, fridge, microwave, sink plus plenty of worktop space, shelves and cupboards. All crockery, cooking utensils and pans are also provided along with a small cleaning set and tea towels.

A small windowed corridor leads to the bathroom with shower, hand basin, heated towel rail and flush toilet. Shelving and a cabinet meant there was plenty of storage space and a small porthole window let in plenty of light.

Our narrow boat bedroom at the bow of the boat had a fixed double bed with storage drawers beneath, shelves, plug sockets and hairdryer. Bedding was supplied and we slept really well. A door from our cabin led to the stern where the tiller is installed and the boat is steered from.

Our Route on the Grand Union and Oxford Canals

Day 1: Stockton to Napton – 2 miles, 3 locks, 2 hours

As novice narrow boaters we picked an easy route for our first canal boat holiday. We started at Stockton Top Marina on the Grand Union Canal. It’s the longest canal in Britain at 137 miles connecting Birmingham with London. 

At Napton Junction (where the Grand Union Canal merges with the Oxford Canal) we turned left and moored nearby for our first night.

Day 2: Napton to  Braunston – 5 miles, 0 locks, 3 hours

We continued through beautiful rolling countryside to the village of Braunston where we took a right and passed under the cast iron bridge at the Braunston Turn. We did our first solo turn at Braunston Marina before mooring and spent the rest of the day and night at Braunston.

Day 3: Braunston to Stockton – 7 miles, 3 locks, 4-5 hours

We travelled back to Napton passing the junction and carried on towards Southam and stopped for lunch. After turning, we headed back to the junction and back up the Grand Union Canal to Stockton. 

We moored up for our last night near Kate Boats at Stockton ready to hand over the boat and vacate by 9:30am.

First time afloat

So what’s it really like cruising the canals on a narrow boat? I won’t lie, it was a bit of a learning curve once we were let loose on our own. There’s a lot to remember. 

At first, we were frantically trying to learn the ropes, keep the boat on course, avoid wildlife and oncoming traffic, steer tight bridges and navigate locks.

The boat is quite slow to respond to the tiller. Timing it so the boat would be in the right place at the right time took a bit of practice. After some close shaves and a few frayed nerves we figured it out and had a lot of fun.

Drifting along past beautiful English countryside was so relaxing with just the gentle chug of the engine and birdsong accompanying us. 

Tendrils of weeping willow would brush along the roof of the boat and other boaters would greet us as we passed by.  Wildlife was all around us with ducks, Canada Geese and swans swimming the canals. Moorhens wove their way between the reeds as we dawdled by at a languid 4-miles an hour.

Locks, knots and moorings

We left Stockton around 4:30pm to cruise to our first stop at Napton encountering three locks at Calcutt. These were all lined up in a row and we arrived just after another boat captained by a Dad with his two teenage sons as crew. We operated the gates together which made life a whole lot easier. 

An hour later we found a quiet spot and moored up for the night with just one other boat nearby.  I’d left the packing to Mr Jones and it was at this point we realised that we had no tea or coffee and that we’d mislaid the bacon. However, he’d packed enough beer to last a fortnight… Hmm.

We locked up the narrow boat and made our way along the towpath to Napton-on-the Hill in search of groceries and a pub dinner. The Kings Head obliged with a tasty meal but the village shop was closed. Beer for breakfast?

We slept soundly and were relieved to find we were still safely moored the next morning. I’d had visions of the boat slipping the ropes and floating away during the night but all was well.

Braunston

After an early start, desperate for coffee, we continued along the Oxford Canal passing under pretty red brick bridges, past cornfields and oak studded fields. At a pretty cast iron bridge near Braunston we turned off where the Grand Union Canal and Oxford Canal canals meet. 

We manoeuvred our three-point turn, thankfully without drama, at Braunston Marina. After doubling back to the visitor moorings we found a space and moored up. 

Coffee was now seriously required so we hot-footed it up the hill to pretty Braunston village to buy supplies. Back on board we had a good cooked breakfast although the bacon never did turn up!

The Braunston Historic Narrowboat Show had recently taken place. All along our stretch of canal heritage boats and barges were moored, painted in traditional designs and colours. A very colourful sight.

One that particularly caught our eye was the pristine narrow boat Sussex No 1. This gorgeous canal boat was painted red, black and cream with 1066 Towage Co. painted on the side. Traditional designs and patterns decorated the boat and the brass was gleaming. 

As we were moored next to it we got chatting with the owners who came from our part of the country and it turned out we had a few mutual friends. Clive and Jax gave us loads of boating tips which we put to good use for the rest of the trip. 

Canal Life

We met more friendly and interesting people as we wandered the towpath. I had a lovely chat with ‘Artist on the Waterways‘, Sylvie Hankin, from Kent. Sylvie sells her incredible paintings and painted canal ware from her narrow boat, possibly the only floating gallery I’ve ever come across.

Further along the path was a floating garden centre selling tiny gardens and plants and I had a chat with Christie, whose boat cats Copper and Lace were out stretching their legs. The ducks didn’t seem to mind at all.

Dinner at the Admiral Nelson

For dinner, the Admiral Nelson, a pretty, historic canal-side pub located at Lock No. 3, was calling. Just a 20-minute walk along the towpath and over the bridge. The pretty pub garden is a good spot for watching the narrow boats pass through the lock. 

The popular pub was packed with both locals and boaters and the food and atmosphere were good. We chose from the burger menu and we were happy with our meals. There are other menus to choose from too and something to suit all tastes.

The walk back down the towpath was very pretty. Moored boats were lined up along the canal and the sun reflected and glinted on the rippling surface of the water as it slipped behind the tree line. We slept soundly.

The Return Route

The next morning we woke to the sound of raindrops on the roof. Great weather for ducks! We weren’t in a hurry so had a leisurely breakfast and by the time we’d finished eating the rain had cleared and we readied the boat to set off. Comedy moment incoming.

Knowing our new friends from the ‘Sussex’ would be waving us off, we wanted to get everything right. After all, we were well on the way to becoming seasoned narrow boaters by now. 

Engine on, ropes released, all was going well until Mr Jones went to steer us out and realised he hadn’t re-attached the tiller and there was nothing to steer with. He quickly retrieved the tiller from its overnight storage and popped it back on. That gave everyone a laugh! 

The journey back to Napton Junction was accompanied by birdsong and the beautiful English countryside. Sometimes rolling hills stretched into the distance, other times we passed through tree-lined canals and forest. The scenery always changing, always peaceful.

The Folly at Napton

We’d heard about The Folly at Napton, a lovely country pub which served a great roast. And because it was Sunday it would’ve been rude not to. We headed past Napton Junction towards the Folly.

We found a quiet spot to moor up but needed to turn the boat first so we’d be facing the right direction to head home. 

We found a turning hole nearby and that done, we set off down the towpath until we arrived at The Folly around half an hour later. What a gorgeous pub; cosy, welcoming and they served a really good Sunday roast. What we like to call a ‘proper pub’.

After a leisurely walk back to our narrow boat we untied the ropes and set off for Stockton, encountering Calcott locks again. This time we worked the three locks with an older couple; the men steering and the women winding, opening and closing the locks. It didn’t take long to get through and there was a decent amount of banter.

Our final night

We moored about half an hour from the marina for our final night. The boat needed to be back by 9:30am and this way we wouldn’t have far to go the next morning.

It was a lovely evening so we took a stroll past the marina to Stockton Locks where there’s a flight of eight locks. They’re an impressive sight, lowering boats by around 54 feet as they pass through. That’s one for next time…

Back on board we sat with a glass of wine and were visited by two beautiful swans and their family of cygnets as we watched the sun slowly slip behind the trees. 

Our weekend afloat gave us a whole new perspective on exploring England. Canal life is unhurried, scenic, sociable and sprinkled with just enough challenges to keep things interesting. We loved the freedom, life on the canals and found ourselves slipping easily into the slow rhythm of the waterways.

Narrow boat holidays with Drifters

If you’re looking for a UK break that’s equal parts adventure and relaxation, then consider a canal boat holiday. Whether you’re a first-timer like us or a seasoned boater, the Grand Union and Oxford canals offer history, countryside, and plenty of character along the way and narrow boat holidays with Drifters Waterway Holidays are a great choice.

Would we do it again? Absolutely, although next time we’ll make sure the bacon makes it on board.

Fact Box

Drifters Waterway Holidays offers over 500 canal boats for hire from 40 bases and nine boat companies across England, Scotland and Wales.

There are over 3,000 miles of waterways for you to discover on their narrow boat holidays, all at your own pace and you don’t need to be an expert. Tuition is included as part of Drifters’ holiday packages.

Hire prices start at £715 for a short break (three or four nights) on a boat for four, £970 for a week.

Narrowboats range from 32ft to 70ft and can accommodate from two up to 12 people. For more information visit Drifters Waterway Holidays or call 0344 984 0322.

The Canal and River Trust

The Canal and River Trust cares for over 2,000 miles of waterways across England and Wales. They maintain the locks, towpaths, and heritage structures that give the canals their unique character, as well as protecting the wildlife and green spaces that make time afloat so special, whether you’re taking narrow boat holidays, walking, or cycling.

Are narrow boat holidays on your wish list? Which canals would you most like to explore?

If you’re heading to this part of the UK then you might like to check out Things to do in Warwick which is just a few miles away.