Driving Death Valley – tips and guide to visiting

Death Valley National Park is famous as having the highest temperatures on Earth. And at 282 feet (86 m) below sea level, Badwater Basin is the lowest elevation in North America. Our Death Valley drive was another highlight of our South West US road trip.

In complete contrast to the majestic granite cliffs, verdant pines and babbling streams of Yosemite National Park, Death Valley National Park has a sun-bleached grandeur and desolate sense of vastness. There really is nowhere else like it on Earth.

If you’d like to include a Death Valley drive in your US itinerary, it’s essential to plan ahead and prepare properly. In this guide, we’ll explore the best things to do in Death Valley National Park and share some tips on preparing for the drive.

Important

Where is Death Valley?

Death Valley is a desert valley in the northern Mojave Desert of Eastern California. It mainly lies in Inyo County, California, close to the California-Nevada border and east of the Sierra Nevada mountains.

The Valley is considered the hottest and driest place in the United States and includes Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America.

Native American groups lived in this area from as early as 7000 BC. The most recent of these was the Timbisha, who lived here around 1000 AD and migrated between the valleys in winter and the mountains in the summer months.

The area became known as ‘Death Valley’ when a group of pioneers got lost in the Valley during the winter of 1849-50. Only one of their party died, but the experience was enough for them to name the place’ Death Valley’.

Why go to Death Valley?

Death Valley became a US National Park in October 1994 and attracted 1.1 million visitors in 2022. It’s the largest US National Park outside Alaska and the fifth largest National Park overall, measuring about 140 miles (225 km) long and 5 to 15 miles (8 to 24 km) wide.

Death Valley National Park also makes up part of the UNESCO-designated Mojave and Colorado Deserts Biosphere Reserve, which aims to promote ecological conservation in the area.

You might expect a vast expanse of heat-scorched landscape and barren emptiness, all framed by craggy mountains. And yes, there are areas of parched, cracked earth, but on closer inspection, you’ll find so much more.

There are mirrors of sparkling white salt deposits, multi-coloured lava formations and vivid rust and ochre striations in the rock face. Splashes of green where small shrubs and plants thrive show there’s moisture in the Valley.

There’s history in Death Valley, too, remnants left behind of the lives led by pioneers, prospectors and borax miners.

How hot is Death Valley?

The answer to this popular question is ‘Incredibly hot!’

On 10th July 1913, Furnace Creek saw the hottest temperature ever recorded on Earth: a scorching 57°C (134°F)!

Death Valley is also incredibly dry, seeing less than two inches of rainfall in a typical year. This is due to its location, separated from the Pacific Ocean by four separate mountain ranges.

Our Death Valley Drive

Death Valley sounds kind of scary. Maybe it’s just the name, but we approached the drive through Death Valley with some trepidation. As we’d waited to board the whale watching boat in Monterey, we heard snippets from other people who had driven Death Valley Road…

Comments like ‘the tyre pressure went up so much we thought they were going to burst’ and ‘you’ll need to turn the air-con off so the engine doesn’t overheat’ didn’t exactly inspire confidence.

We filled the car with fuel, stocked the cooler box with ice and bottled water, slapped on the sunscreen and studied our trusty paper map.

Leaving Lone Pine, where we’d stayed overnight, we turned onto the heat-hazed Route 190. The scenic byway seemed to stretch into infinity and led us into the furnace of Death Valley.

We were prepared for high temperatures, but on our drive through Death Valley, temperatures reached a mere 108°F…

The best things to do and see in Death Valley

Death Valley may look like a desolate wasteland at first glance, but you soon learn that there is a whole lot more to this park than sand, salt, and scorching temperatures.

We planned our route through the Valley to take in some of the Death Valley highlights. The park is vast, and although some of the main attractions are close to each other, they’re often only accessible by rough roads zig-zagging across the Valley’s peaks. Reaching somewhere just 10km away can easily take an hour.

There are many fantastic things to do in Death Valley, some of which might come as a surprise!

Mustard Canyon, Death Valley

Mustard Canyon is just north of Furnace Creek. It’s worth a stop to view the ochre rock formations and the nearby ruins of the Harmony Borax Mine.

The extreme heat hit us full-on as we made our way up the hill to the old mine and the wagon cart that was once pulled by a twenty-mule team.

Borax, known as the ‘white gold of the desert,’ was the most profitable mineral to come out of Death Valley, and it was hard to imagine that people used to work the mines in this heat.

Badwater Basin

Badwater Basin is the lowest point in the US, sitting 282 feet below sea level. That’s twice the depth of the Grand Canyon!

From the parking lot, you can follow a wide, flat hiking trail onto the salt flats of Badwater Basin. The dry lake bed is a very cool photography spot that gives you the opportunity to take some unique photographs.

Expect to spend 30 minutes or longer here, depending on how far you walk and how many photos you want to take.

Zabriskie Point

One of the most famous viewpoints in Death Valley is Zabriskie Point. The overlook is just a short walk from the parking lot, and it’s one of the best places to watch the sunset. You can also take a short hike along the trails into the hills.

Zabriskie Point is part of the Amargosa Range, well-known for its eroded landscape. It’s made up of the sediment remains of Furnace Creek Lake, which dried up nearly five million years ago, long before Death Valley even existed.

Zabriskie Point provided the most spectacular landscape we saw on our Death Valley drive. The view over the badlands of Furnace Creek with its pastel pink and yellow tinted rock formations reminded me of Rainbow Vista in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada.

Artist’s Drive and Artist’s Palette

Artists Drive is a 9-mile scenic drive through the unique landscape of Death Valley. This Death Valley road runs one-way through the park from south to north, and there are plenty of places to stop, enjoy the view and take some photos.

Artist’s Palette is one of the most popular spots on Artist’s Drive. It looks out over pink, purple, and aqua hills created by the oxidation of metals in the soil. There’s a handy parking area if you want to take a closer look.

Another unmarked canyon about a mile before Artist’s Palette is also worth a quick stop. It’s not as well known as Artist’s Palette, so you’re less likely to see other people here.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Although there’s sand throughout the Valley, few places have the combination of wind and a barrier needed to create dunes.

The Mesquite Sand Dunes is one of these rare locations. The towering dunes are named after the mesquite trees that grow in the area. In spring, the trees’ upper branches burst into life, causing a flash of green and yellow.

This area of the park is excellent for photographing the dramatic shadows that fall over the sands at sunrise and sunset or observing the night sky. However, take care, as nocturnal kangaroo rats and sidewinder rattlesnakes make their home in the dunes.

Furnace Creek Visitor’s Center

The park’s visitor centre is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

This is where you can pay your park fees and talk to the park rangers. There are also several exhibits to browse and a 20-minute park film you can watch.

There’s also a bookstore in the centre, where you can stock up on water, sandwiches and light snacks.

20 Mule Team Canyon

Twenty Mule Team Canyon is on Highway 190, the main road through Death Valley, about one mile south of Zabriskie Point.

The one-way road here leads through the yellow and white mudstone hills where borax was mined a century ago. It’s a beautiful but desolate area with no vegetation to be seen.

You’ll find a small parking area around two-thirds of the way through the drive. Stop here and follow the short hiking trails into the hills to enjoy spectacular views from the highest point.

You’ll probably spend around 45 minutes at Twenty Mule Team Canyon.

Darwin Falls

If you were expecting endless desert and desolation, Darwin Falls is one of the most unexpected sights in Death Valley National Park.

Darwin Falls is a year-round waterfall that you’ll find in Panamint Springs on the west side of Death Valley National Park. Getting here takes you on a hike through an oasis quite unlike any other part of the park.

It’s well worth the two-mile round trip, which you should expect to take around 1-1.5 hours.

Dante’s View

Dante’s View sits on the north side of Coffin Peak, along the crest of the Black Mountains, and offers one of the best viewpoints in Death Valley National Park. From a height of 1,669m, you can see the heart of Death Valley and Badwater Basin stretching out far below.

You can either stay in the parking lot at Dante’s View or follow one of several trails to enjoy a different perspective. One of these takes you to the very edge of the viewpoint, where you can enjoy the most dramatic panoramic views. There’s also a rest area with picnic tables along one of the other trails.

Visit Dante’s View in the cooler early morning or take your telescope for night-time stargazing.

Devil’s Golf Course

Near Badwater Basin, you’ll find a series of curiously bumpy salt flats known as the Devil’s Golf Course.

Here, the rock salt has been eroded by wind and rain into jagged peaks. If you listen carefully, you may even be able to hear tiny pops as the salt crystals expand and contract in the heat.

It’s worth stopping briefly here, as you can see the flats from the parking area. However, take care if you choose to walk out onto the salt flats, as the salt crystals are sharp enough to cut your clothes and skin.

How to Visit Death Valley

There’s so much to see in Death Valley that you really need at least two days to see the park’s main highlights.

However, Death Valley also makes a great day trip from Las Vegas. You might like to book a guided tour of the park and there are several day tours of Death Valley that include transportation.

If you’re planning to hire a car and drive to Death Valley, here are some tips to make your journey easier.

How to get to Death Valley National Park

Death Valley National Park has three main entrances, making it easily accessible from California in the west or Nevada in the east.

If you’re travelling from Las Vegas, you can take Nevada Highway 160 to Pahrump and then follow Highway 190 straight into the park.

Alternatively, take Highway 95 from Las Vegas to Beatty, Nevada, aka the Gateway to Death Valley, and then follow NV-374 into the park.

From the west, take Highway 395 to Olancha and then follow Trona Road to enter the park near Panamint Springs.

Tips for Driving in Death Valley

Driving in Death Valley’s harsh conditions puts a lot of strain on your car, so it’s vital to prepare for your trip before you set off. You can check the road conditions and any road closures on the Death Valley National Park website.

• Check the weather before you start out or call in at the Visitor Centre, as you won’t have mobile service in the park.
• Tell someone where you’re going and when you plan to return, in case of emergency.
• Make sure your vehicle is in good condition, checking the fluids and tyres in particular. Make sure that you have a spare tyre, a puncture repair kit and plenty of water to top up your radiator. It’s also worth taking a set of jumper cables.
• Pick up a paper map of Death Valley National Park at the entrance kiosk or visitor centre. You won’t be able to navigate with Google Maps, and GPS directions may be out of date.
• Fuel up before you enter Death Valley and whenever you come across a petrol station. You can refuel at Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells and Panamint Springs, but the price is likely to be higher than at gas stations outside the park.
• Stay on the paved roads and drive carefully, looking out for blind curves, steep drops and limited visibility from blowing sand. Wildlife is also likely to be on the roads, so drive carefully.
• Carry an emergency kit, including at least one gallon of water per day for each person in your group. It’s also a good idea to pack food and something to keep you warm overnight.

If you break down or have an accident, the National Park Service recommends staying with your vehicle until help arrives. You’re unlikely to be able to contact anyone, so it’s important to share your plans with an emergency contact and pack an emergency kit in your vehicle.

Where to stay in Death Valley

The small town of Lone Pine lies around 50 miles west of Death Valley and offers a variety of chain hotels and motels. It’s a good option if you’re travelling to Death Valley from the west.

There are limited places to stay inside Death Valley, so book your accommodation well in advance, especially if you’re visiting in peak season. The Inn at Death Valley is the most luxurious option. It offers spacious rooms, each with an extra-large double bed and flat-screen TVs. The hotel also offers two restaurants, a bar, an outdoor swimming pool and a spa/wellness centre.

Check rates and availability at the Inn at Death Valley

The Ranch at Death Valley offers rooms at a more affordable rate than the Inn but still has good facilities. Each room has two queen-sized beds and a patio or balcony, some with mountain views. This hotel also has a restaurant, outdoor swimming pool and tennis court.

Check rates and availability at The Ranch at Death Valley

The Stovepipe Wells Village Hotel offers budget accommodation in Death Valley. The rooms are clean but fairly basic, so if you’re looking for a cheap hotel in Death Valley, this is worth checking out.

Tips for Visiting Death Valley

Leave No Trace

Always follow the principles of Leave No Trace to minimise your impact on the environment in Death Valley:

• Plan ahead and prepare.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of your waste properly.
• Leave the park as you find it.
• Minimise the impact of campfires.
• Be considerate of other visitors.
• Do not approach or feed the wildlife.

Entrance fees

Your entrance fee to Death Valley allows you to leave and re-enter the park as often as you wish for 7 days from the date of purchase.

• An entry permit for a private vehicle and all passengers travelling in it costs $30.
• A permit for a motorcycle costs $25.
• A permit for a visitor on foot costs $15. See full details on the Death Valley National Park website.

Opening times

Death Valley National Park is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

The Furnace Creek Visitor Center is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Camping RV sites Developed Campgrounds in Death Valley are accessible via paved roads and provide drinking water, toilets and waste removal.

Furnace Creek Campground takes reservations between 15th October and 15th April, and the other sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Sites can be booked up to six months in advance.

Furnace Creek and Texas Springs are often full on weekends and holidays, but the largest campground, Sunset, usually has space available even in peak season.

Privately owned campgrounds within Death Valley National Park also accept reservations all year round.

There are 18 RV sites with full hookups at Furnace Creek Campground. These book up very quickly, often up to six months in advance. Primitive Campgrounds in Death Valley are reached on dirt roads that are only accessible in a high-clearance 4×4. No water or services are available, and you must take away your own rubbish.

Camping is limited to groups of no more than eight people. If you’re travelling in a larger group, you can reserve a group site at Furnace Creek Campground.

Backcountry camping is also permitted within Death Valley National Park, but it’s essential to make proper preparations and follow the principles of Leave No Trace.

Mobile / Cell Phone Coverage

It’s doubtful that you will have any cellular service during your time at Death Valley, so don’t rely on your phone to use maps or make phone calls.

Think of it as a digital detox and carry a paper map to navigate the park.

Dogs

Death Valley gets very hot from spring through to early autumn, so avoid taking pets during this time.

If you do take your pet to Death Valley, please observe the rules of BARK:

• Bag your pet’s waste and take care to dispose of it properly.
• Always leash your pet, using a leash that’s no longer than six feet.
• Respect the local wildlife; don’t let your pet harm or harass it.
• Know where you are allowed to go.

Leashed pets are welcome in developed areas of the park, such as paved roads, parking lots, campgrounds and outside federal buildings. They are not permitted on trails and designated wilderness areas or inside federal buildings.

Don’t leave your pet unattended in your vehicle, as it can get dangerously hot very quickly.

Drones

Flying drones within Death Valley National Park is forbidden unless you have written permission from the superintendent.

Fires

All vegetation in Death Valley National Park is protected. Fires are prohibited in the summer months and other times of high fire danger.

Fires using ash-producing fuel like wood or charcoal can only be built in National Park Service metal fire pits. You can bring your own firewood or buy it from Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells General Store.

You can also use gas-burning stoves or grills with an on/off switch.

Death Valley National Park is a landscape of extremes and a little preparation can make all the difference for an unforgettable adventure. Whether you’re visiting for a few hours, a day, or longer, stay mindful of the weather, keep your water flask filled, and soak in the incredible sights around you.

After our first road trip week of exploring San Francisco and California’s wildlife in Monterey and Yosemite it was time to head back to the city. This time, the neon lights of Las Vegas were calling us…

Ready to book your trip?

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